# How Would You Roof This?



## Roofmaster417 (Jun 7, 2010)

I signed this job last night.Its a Shake/Shingle redeck.The material that was the face nailed is that chit GAP from lowes.It will be torn off.My Question is how would you roof the hip areas leading to the slope.Also what would you use for transition between the flat and shingles?

The picture showing the 24'x24' flat is to show the pitch transition from the flat to slope.On the other side of the pitch area is a continous valley that is deep and low(Pic 2).What materials would you use in the valley?(Pic 2)It is going to be and has been a trouble spot as you can see the build up of leaves up the side of the roof on the far section.(Pic 2)


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## vtroofing (Sep 27, 2009)

My answer to any flat situations is EPDM. If there is a slight pitch up to a steeper pitch it would have to be fully adhered because loose laid or mechanically fastened wants to stretch down. 

The valley I would run up at least 24"/ covering all but 16" and start shingles.

Some of the roofs we do have real wide topside of chimneys and instead of a clump of shingles and H & R EPDM is the answer. 

I have not used TPO and I don't plan on it because up here in Vermont EPDM has always been the answer and easy to come by and I know it works.


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## vtroofing (Sep 27, 2009)

A little carpentry in that valley would eliminate future build up of debris. 

What I mean is remove siding and carry the flatter roof abutting the wall straight across creating a valley running up the steeper side, instead of a pocket that is there now.


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## 1985gt (Dec 21, 2010)

EPDM. I posted in the other forum. I wouldnt use TPO or PVC as it wouldnt be as workable with the angles.


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## MGP Roofing (Mar 23, 2010)

Butyl rubber or torch on membrane on the low slope areas, then lap the shingles over on the steep areas.


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## shinglebroker (Feb 18, 2011)

Well i would do it the same way they did it but i would use alot of ice and water in the valley and i would bend a valley on the break so that the water would go away from the valley. I would put drip edge around the edge of the roof.


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## shazapple (Dec 3, 2010)

Torch down modbit on the flat and valley areas, extending 3 feet onto sloped areas. Shingles should overlap the modbit 2 feet.

Tell them to trim their tree and they won't get as much junk in that valley.


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## jjshaggy (Feb 24, 2011)

shazapple said:


> Torch down modbit on the flat and valley areas, extending 3 feet onto sloped areas. Shingles should overlap the modbit 2 feet.
> 
> Tell them to trim their tree and they won't get as much junk in that valley.


:thumbdown: i disagree. f/a epdm would work best /easiest. torching on residental can be dangerous. why take the risk?


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## jcarnesroofing (Feb 22, 2011)

GAF's everguard system would work great on that roof. It installs similar to rubber and uses all the same type of flashing accessories. They have many colors available which look great on residential homes where the roof can be viewed from the ground. 

www.jcarnesroofing.com


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## jjshaggy (Feb 24, 2011)

did you start this job yet roofmaster? what material did you go with?


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## Nicholas DeLuca (Apr 12, 2011)

EPDM!! Did you start the job yet? How did it go?


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## Nicholas DeLuca (Apr 12, 2011)

jjshaggy said:


> :thumbdown: i disagree. f/a epdm would work best /easiest. torching on residental can be dangerous. why take the risk?


 
AHHH TORCHING!!! stay away!


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## jjshaggy (Feb 24, 2011)

Nicholas DeLuca said:


> AHHH TORCHING!!! stay away!


 i remember the 1st time i saw a torch. i was thinking what genius thought of installing the roof with a f ing flamethrower.:laughing: now i kinda like it, but still prefer single ply if i had my druthers.


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## 1985gt (Dec 21, 2010)

BUR all the way, take them over a single ply. The bigger the better (so you dont have to spread gravel by hand.... as much):laughing:


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## morrissey roofing (Nov 28, 2010)

well as for the transition, fully adhered epdm, with coilstock over the top pf the epdm, paper or water and ice iver the coil stock, asphalt and rubber dont mix, torch if u have good insurance, but epdm is cheaper and last longer since ur gonna rip it, the valley, well a metal vallew would work to get debris out, but i would to a tamko, snap the line, shoot a shinlge sideways up a few inches from the center, but and run, those tight valleys always trap stuff.


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