# installing a metal roof on a trailer house



## rainydays

Hello everyone. A trailer house 77' in lengh an 16' ft wide has eaten my lunch the past couple days. The first on that ever has the 3,4,5 method is just not working seems to me the trailer is convexed . One side of the trailer about a 1/3 is running straight then it just stars running up hill managed to straighten that side started the other same as te front xcept it starts running downhill at the same point . any suggestions or advice critism help please


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## 4 seasons

How much is it actually out? 1" or is it 10" out?
Do you have any pictures?


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## rainydays

well from the begining all seemed to be true 21' down the roof ran straight twenty fet more it just seemed to lose 1" a sheet uphill on front side and 1" a sheet downhill on the backside so at the beginning we statred at around 12 3/4 overhang to around 4ish at the end before I made a jig and attahed it to the trailor and flushed each sheet to it . I managered to straighten it out somewhat with about 10 " of overhang at the other end . Seemed like to me the trailer convexed at a point 21' down the roof . Any suggestions on how to start off for the next time I install one of these roofs ?


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## 1985gt

Copper roof on a trailer house, interesting....


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## Pie in the Sky

1985gt said:


> Copper roof on a trailer house, interesting....


:laughing:


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## Billy Luttrell

What kind of metal roofing is it? Residential rib/express rib stuff with exposed fasteners? If so, have you ever heard of shrinking/stretching the metal? The trick will only word with the exposed fastener stuff.

Let me know and I will explain.


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## LCG

I have battled many metal roofs and I am willing to admit I have had my ass handed to me MANY times by trailer houses... :wallbash: This is the easiest way that I have found.

Lesson #1: Even though your tape say's 8'0 all the way down doesn't mean it is. As you have now learned ALL trailers are "S" shaped.

Lesson #2: Your roofing a trailer home. Your first response is "These people don't have allot of money so i'll do it for less, or, it's not that big of a house, it will only take two days." Why? It's more of a pain in the ass! You charge more. I have also done allot of interior work to trailers. Even more of a pain in the ass! And don't tell me your making out fine on this one. You didn't, I know, I've been there!:laughing:

Lesson #3: Overhang: Working with an 8' panel. (for example purposes)

If we want a 4" overhang "minimum". Measure down 4" on one eve end, 4" on the other, make a mark at 8' (this should be within 2" of your ridge), chalk a line on your 8' marks. "This chalk line also creates a straight line to which you can square your panels" I know, we have all been told to square from the eve... BS! If something is not straight you cannot square off of it. You have to create straight on order to create square. This is done at the top of the roof.

Now measure from your chalk line down the roof. Remember we have an 8' sheet of metal we are working with. With a 4" overhang you will hold the tape, on the chaulk line, at the 92" mark. Your helper will verify we have a 4" minimum all the way down the eve. If the overhang lands 5", 4 3/4", 4", etc. then thats the way it has to be. If you have to adjust your measurment up or down to maintain your minimum or gain on the ridge, this is the time to do it. 

Now that our line's are chalked and we are ready for panels. Line up the tops of your panels with the chalk line at the ridge. The guy on the bottom just verifies the bottoms of the panels are matching up correctly and tacks the sheet. I like to stitch 2 or 3 panels together and use these to start off with. If using a Standing Seam panel (because they are only 12" to 16") you can use the 3-4=5 method. I prefer the framing square myself. The 3' panel has enough to work with especially if you tack them together. Lining them up to the chalk line is a bit more acurate this way.

Remember, you are installing a square panel on a crooked trailer. Your customer know's this, or at least he should have because you explained it to him or her during the contract signing. It is your job to deliver the best ROOF you can. 

***Now don't get me wrong. I am not advocating installing a less than stellar roof. On the other hand. Are you doing any favors to the sheet by cutting bits and pieces off it. No, you aren't. Your roof should be straight and square. Your roof should be perfect!***

You really don't notice the bends in the trailer as much as you would think. If anything it develops an optical illusion that the trailer is actually straight. The larger the overhang the bigger the illusion.


Lesson#4

SINGLE PLY: For those rounded roofs you see on trailers. Deck screw 7/16 OSB to the existing roof trusses. Install a layer of 1/2 fanfold, mechanically fasten a single ply (preferably PVC), heat weld the seams, install gutter. GET PAID!:thumbup:

Happy Roofing!


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## 1985gt

Billy Luttrell said:


> What kind of metal roofing is it? Residential rib/express rib stuff with exposed fasteners? If so, have you ever heard of shrinking/stretching the metal? The trick will only word with the exposed fastener stuff.
> 
> Let me know and I will explain.


I was poking fun of the spamer who thought a zinc or copper roof on a trailer house will fly.



LCG said:


> Snipit


1st.
Get out of truck lock doors.


Step #1 Look at property and surrounding area. If fairly maintained go to step #2. If not walk away.

Step #2 Look at roof, assess how much mastic is applied to roof. If under 30 gallons measure. If over Run...

Step #3 Talk to customer, feel out the situation. 

Step #4 Prepare estimate, generally taking less then 20 minutes of your time.

Step #5 Hand customer estimate, explain and walk away.

Step #6 Move on to something that will make the company money.


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## LCG

1985gt said:


> I was poking fun of the spamer who thought a zinc or copper roof on a trailer house will fly.
> 
> 
> 
> 1st.
> Get out of truck lock doors.
> 
> 
> Step #1 Look at property and surrounding area. If fairly maintained go to step #2. If not walk away.
> 
> Step #2 Look at roof, assess how much mastic is applied to roof. If under 30 gallons measure. If over Run...
> 
> Step #3 Talk to customer, feel out the situation.
> 
> Step #4 Prepare estimate, generally taking less then 20 minutes of your time.
> 
> Step #5 Hand customer estimate, explain and walk away.
> 
> Step #6 Move on to something that will make the company money.


:laughing:

Again, GT hitting the nail on the head. :thumbup:


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