# Standing Seam Transitions



## VTBuilder (Nov 3, 2011)

We have a small standing seam job coming up and it has a transition from an 8/12 (Main house) to a 4/12 (Porch roof) that runs the length of the building. I have seen a few different ways to deal with this transition. One was to have a transition piece that is hemmed on the top edge to receive upper pans and it then bends at the transition and then goes over the lower pans (pound down and screwed). The other way I have seen it done is to slightly cut the profile, a relief cut, allowing the pan to bend at the transition, caulk the cut and move on. I have heard about a third option that involves unbending the profile to straighten the metal in a 90 degree, then bending it to allow for the transition bend and then seaming it back up. Is this possible? Im trying to find a way to make this transition with out cutting the seam or having a vulnerable area at this transition. I would appreciate any ideas or suggestions. Thanks.


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## tinner666 (Oct 28, 2008)

Like this? I doubt it can be done. Nobody knows how.


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## tinner666 (Oct 28, 2008)

Some more.


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## tinner666 (Oct 28, 2008)

There is another way too. Install accessory cleats. I use them all the time.

Box-fold the the panel ends on the porch. Set them in place. When you cleatt he panels, use a 8"-10" cleat. Here are some training shots from my shop. 
You just pop-rivet or screw the head flashing into the cleat. No holes in the panels. No cutting involved when box-folding. (Like a paper airplane)


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## tinner666 (Oct 28, 2008)

Here's the finished product and a view from the bottom of the panel. And some box-folding.


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## VTBuilder (Nov 3, 2011)

Thanks for the pictures. It seems the first picture you posted is a way of dealing with the transition by bending the profile to allow for the transition bend. Is the bend in the profile like a "z" to allow the pan to bend? I also like the second suggestion about the box bends and transition clips. What do you think would be the best way to deal with this transition in heavy snow climate. We see lots of snow in the winter and the transition spots can hold snow. I am wondering which method is less likely to be affected by snow build up/leaking.


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## tinner666 (Oct 28, 2008)

We get 20" that last for weeks some winters. I've never had an issue with either method.
That first fold pic is the foundation for the correct procedure. That's done as it's set on the transition. Then, large needle-nose are used to gently start the partial box-fold so it's not bucking water. Twist too hard and you will tear the metal. It's a matter of finesse as you use S-3's, needle nose, seaming block, and mallet. All hits are soft, and when it's coming together correctly, there is no forcing.
There is no book or forum teaching that will work. You're going to have to do it and watch how it comes together. Feel free to call too.


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## tinner666 (Oct 28, 2008)

I seem to have forgotten to mention that those accessory cleats are attached to the roof like regular cleats so any strain is directed to the sheathing, not the panels only.


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## VTBuilder (Nov 3, 2011)

It does seem like it will be a carefully executed process to get the transition bend. Ive found a couple types of bending pliers that seem like they will do the initial bend and hand work the rest. Im thinking that doing the bend manually and then seaming it all back up is probably the best way, though maybe more time consuming. Im hoping to get in the shop this weekend and try out some test panels to see how it goes. Kind of dreading this project as winter is creeping up on us. Thanks for the advice and feedback/pix, greatly appreciated.


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## tinner666 (Oct 28, 2008)

The knack isn't too hard. Using the pliers for the fold at the same time as straighening the panel side again makes the process pretty smooth.


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