# HELP for acceptable chimney counter flashing method



## NLshinglerBC (Nov 12, 2011)

HI all
I am currently 2/3rds done a private re-roof. and have a few questions - thanks
I am finished the upper roof
*which had one skylight,and the homeowner had a new velux flashing kit, usually i cut my own frontpan and step it then back pan.
the kit did not come with counterflashing. should i make some? there as not any before.

.

this is all leading into my number one concern, 
the back lower roof has a chimney as well, older and was lead flashed but now needs to be reflashed. and I am debating wether too. 
A ) clean it up and flash it and cut a riglet as ive seen and break some counter flashing and paint it to whatever color he wishes. but I would like some advice on cutting the riglet and possibly tips on breaking the counter-flashing as i haven't much experience making counter flashing.
B) I have a friend who specialized in torch on and he does shingles as well and always torches his chimneys in. DONT FLIP OUT - he does it and thats it , hes done hundreds like it - should i suggest that to the home owner?
and 
C) i have another friend who is a roofer and he buys this pre bent somewhat flashing apron made by a roofer for chimneys that you nail use mortar nails to fasten it.

SO PLEASE HELP IM CURRENTLY IN PROCESS OF DOING THIS JOB would like to complete it this weekend.

please don't rip into me, I am not as experienced as some of you and the only way I will learn is to do it myself and learn from you. I am not interested in doing a shit job, i've been around roofing for ten years and only really became confident to shingle properly / install properly 4-5 years ago and even then I would not allow my self to do the more serious penetrable jobs like brick chimneys, i only really did chimneys with vinyl/wood siding so that acted as counter in its own.

if you want pictures to help with giving me advice , let me know, but please suggest the best / most appropriate method for me to go about wrapping up this job!
thank you very much.
hope to get helpful replies from whoever decides to reply. thank you.
-Alex


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## vtroofing (Sep 27, 2009)

Grind out, add new metal of choice (We use lead) and repoint with mortar. In freezing temps repointing is out we prime and glue uncured rubber (EPDM) to cover the step flashing and aprons. It will last a long time- at least enough to get to warmer weather. 

As far as your skylights- Next to the glass on Velux is a tight groove the trims fit in and bent coil fits in well, for standing seam roofs replacing aluminum counter and step is replaced with 24 gauge pan material as sliding snow mangles aluminum.


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## NLshinglerBC (Nov 12, 2011)

edit


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## NLshinglerBC (Nov 12, 2011)

edit


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## Grumpy (Oct 29, 2008)

Get the NRCA manual, or the CertainTeed Shingle Applicator Manual. Or even the United States Military Roofing Manual (Yes the US Military has a roofing manual!). All 3 will show you proper flashing methods with detail drawings.


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## NLshinglerBC (Nov 12, 2011)

i have the certainteed manaul.
i flashed it properly. front pan stepped and back pan. and i am going to torch it in. we are in Newfoundland and there is constant wind driven rain and snow and ice , so counter flashing a chimney is not necessarily the best option as snow can buiildup behind it and melt behind the flashing, i currrentlyhave it ice and water shielded -flashed and blueskin taped around and getting it torched in.


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## Grumpy (Oct 29, 2008)

Snow in Chicago too. I agree with you, I preflash all my metal flashings with ice shield first. Meaning I basically would first flash the chimney with ice shield, then do the typical shingling process. Since we began doing that about back in 2002 or so, I haven't had one chimney leak.


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## NLshinglerBC (Nov 12, 2011)

torching them in? 
i ice an waterd, flashed , blue skin around metal then torch then blue skin around torch on
check out pics!


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## NLshinglerBC (Nov 12, 2011)

the HO suggested he wants a little tin cap/apron going from the mortar line above ...i just thinking a bead of mastic at top of torch on seem..


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## Grumpy (Oct 29, 2008)

Home owner is right. It needs a counter flashing or termination bar to keep the membrane mechanically attached to the masonry over time. With no mechanical termination, the membrane will fall off the wall in a few years.

Also need some foot ball corner patches on the upside corners. Picture 2, where the relief cuts are.


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## london (Apr 22, 2011)

In UK we use lead flashing - inserted into the brickwork.


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## Rooferpro75 (Dec 25, 2012)

I would have ground out mortar ,put a cricket behind chimney. Wrapped with ice and water step flashed with shingles. And put lead in ground out motor joints and seal joints back up. Sorry but that looks like a mess.


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## RoofPro (Oct 29, 2008)

*where is the cricket?*

I would have to agree with Roofpro75 (and not just because we have similar names). You really need a cricket on that chimney. By the time you nail all the shingles that torch down is going to be Swiss cheese, build up of wet snow above that chimney could be a real problem. I would use 20 oz copper bib, step and counter flashing if your using 30 year (or better) shingles. London – in the states we are trying to get away lead – the OSHA and the EPA frown on it. But in terms of waterproofing – it can’t be beat.


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## Mpepin (Jan 9, 2013)

There's no way that you'd get away with doing something like this in the Northeast US of A. Callback city, not to mention an eyesore. We can't even get our mfg to warranty their product unless we build a cricket to help with snow and water. It's also spec to use lead counter flashing around here. We can only use copper if the customer is 
Willing to pay the extra monies.


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## GAZ (Aug 23, 2012)

Mpepin said:


> There's no way that you'd get away with doing something like this in the Northeast US of A. Callback city, not to mention an eyesore. We can't even get our mfg to warranty their product unless we build a cricket to help with snow and water. It's also spec to use lead counter flashing around here. We can only use copper if the customer is
> Willing to pay the extra monies.


 

Nor would you be able to do that in the UK, might be ok for an emergency repair but generally we use lead.


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