# vents/wind driven rain problems



## bama boy (Jan 31, 2014)

Hi, I would just like to say I am very thankful to have found this website. I have been reading it all day. Thanks for all the useful info you all are willing to share. I just started my own company here in Colorado.

Any how, I am doing all the warranty calls for a company here that does mostly new construction. I get a large number of calls involving bathroom fan vents leaking. They are cheap vents that are supplied by the HVAC companies. I come up with the conclusion that it is caused by wind driven rain 95% of the time. I climb down the ladder shaking my head and tell the home owner what the problem is. And they basically just except it beings it only drips a little when there are high winds.

My question is what's the best product "vents" that you guys know of that does well with preventing wind driven rain intrusion?

Gus, thanks


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## roofermann (Jul 7, 2012)

Welcome aboard! Whats the the brand/model of the vents, so I know to avoid them?:thumbup:


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## bama boy (Jan 31, 2014)

I really don't know what brand, it's new construction cookie cutter homes, HVAC supplies all vents, plumbing co supplies all pipe boots. They get the cheapest materials possible! Even the 1 1/2" pipe boots that the plumbers supply leak due to not having a tight seal around the pipe. I got the roofers with the company to start sealing the 1 1/2" boots, but that only last for a short period of time due to expansion and contraction. Lots of problems with these new homes, but the Roofing Co only gives a one year warranty along with the builders so I can't convince most to start making these small changes.

And thanks for the welcome!


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## FL Roofer (Nov 5, 2012)

I use lead boots only on my pipes and 750 vents for bathroom vents. I've never had a leak on any one of those vents WHEN INSTALLED CORRECTLY. Driving rain shouldn't even get into a 750 vents grates on the side. The neoprene pipe boots are junk and people use them because they're cheap. If someone doesn't' cut or pull the extra neoprene when they are making it the right size for the pipe then that could cause a leak. Plus, if you are giving a workmanship warranty you could be going back to fix it for free. I've had to fix them in the past for something that was installed maybe 4-5 years prior and the neoprene was already cracking and leaking from sun exposure, etc.

I also use peel n stick when drying in around all penetrations. Whether it be valleys, chimneys, plumbing pipes, kitchen and bathroom vents, they all get it. Then the vent has to have roof cement under and over the flashing before shingles are installed. I've done countless repairs and made plenty of extra money on vents and skylights where they looked good and the shingles were installed right but they leaked because they simply had no roof cement. It doesn't always happen, but why not put the roof cement under and over the flashing to know for sure that you will never have to go back to that job for a leak.


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## bama boy (Jan 31, 2014)

FL Roofer said:


> I use lead boots only on my pipes and 750 vents for bathroom vents. I've never had a leak on any one of those vents WHEN INSTALLED CORRECTLY. Driving rain shouldn't even get into a 750 vents grates on the side. The neoprene pipe boots are junk and people use them because they're cheap. If someone doesn't' cut or pull the extra neoprene when they are making it the right size for the pipe then that could cause a leak. Plus, if you are giving a workmanship warranty you could be going back to fix it for free. I've had to fix them in the past for something that was installed maybe 4-5 years prior and the neoprene was already cracking and leaking from sun exposure, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> I also use peel n stick when drying in around all penetrations. Whether it be valleys, chimneys, plumbing pipes, kitchen and bathroom vents, they all get it. Then the vent has to have roof cement under and over the flashing before shingles are installed. I've done countless repairs and made plenty of extra money on vents and skylights where they looked good and the shingles were installed right but they leaked because they simply had no roof cement. It doesn't always happen, but why not put the roof cement under and over the flashing to know for sure that you will never have to go back to that job for a leak.


Hey thanks for the advice. I have one dumb question, what do you mean by 750 vent? I like lead boots as well, and I like the idea of making tight fits while installing your underlayment around all penetrations with the peel and stick, it's a shame about most of the new construction practices out here, they use the cheapest labor and materials


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